Beauty: Very nice – Safeguard: very good – Difficulty: D/Var. D/E – Hight: 400 m/ 2,5 hours – Entrance to ascend: 1,5 hours – Descent: 2 hours. Total time and hight: 6 hours/ 815 m , Direction: North, Peak: Plamorder Spitze, 2985 m
General information: The beautiful northern climbing system in the crystalline, gold-grey rocks is one of the most beautiful primary rocks and fixed rope routes of the Alps. From the almost 3000 meter high peak one gets a wonderful view of Ortler. The Tyrolean rout is more homogeneous than the neighbouring Golden route, but also has short D-points; the descent is well-insured. Even though the route lies in the lift-area, because of its exposed, high-alpine location it should be taken only with the reliable weather. The climbing system was constructed in 1985 to reanimate the cable car production.
Entrance: From the mountain station the Bergkastel cable car over the ski-run near the Zirmbahn (Cedar lift) to the mountain station and further to the mountain station of the Almlift. Then below the Bergkastel peak in a block cirque and over the countless blocks under the northern rock of the Plamorder peak. Entry follows at 2660 m. Additional time without the use of cable cars: 1.45 hours
Descent: From the peak short over the west edge down and right away cross back to the northern face peak rock (B). Then descend a very steep (C) with the band, which leads to the Westgrat (western ridge). Follow the band (A) till a narrow saddle, where you descend on the north side of a ditch and later a boulder field to the entrance; slightly marked. Over the Entrance back to the mountain station of the Bergkastel cable cars.
Route: At once from the Entrance very steep (D) over the first ascend up. This leads to a stepped ridge that reveals again smaller ascends (till C). After a short walking area there comes a rock with a smooth edge (C). Then one can make a side-trip to a short, free-standing tower (D/E – also at descent!), though it is not necessary. Further over a smooth part of the rock (C) and a wonderful ridge (B, at the end B/C) which after a short descend ends in a saddle. There on the left an emergency descent can take you back (a high danger of a rock fall!) Over a short plateau to the last plumb cutting (C/D), which ends in a flat ridge, that one (A) follows till the saddle and then further to the peak.
Difficulties: a very hard Sport climbing route (D), seldom easier than C – the tower variants (D/E) can be skipped.
Equipment: Complete Via ferrata equipment, Via ferrata gloves, if needed a safety rope, necessarily a helmet!
To consider: a rock fall at the lower part of the rock. By moist weather start in no case, as the golden lichen is very slippery! Also the descent has some places of the fixed rope route and demands sure foot. Don’t miss the descending of the last car!
Lodges: Mountain restaurant Bergkastel, 2173 m
Maps:
AV-Karte 30/4, Nauder’s mountains;
Tabacco WK 043, Vinschgauer Oberland;
BEV ÖK 171, Nauders;
Kompass WK 42, Samnaungruppe;
Freytag & Berndt WK 253, Landeck - Reschenpass -Kaunertal.
Downloads:Tirolerweg.pdf (740.4 KB)
ski-nauders@tirol.com
